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FIELD GUIDE TO SUMMERING (SORT OF) IN AND AROUND THE GREENBRIER VALLEY

Kayakers and tubers float the Greenbrier River, where time slows and the current leads. Photo by Carl Pack

My roots here run deep. Generations of my family have lived, worked, and built lives here. This land and community have shaped me, and I’ve watched new faces and familiar ones alike make their own memories here. Whether here for a lifetime or just a while, everyone leaves their mark through shared moments, traditions, and memories made across the changing seasons. Summer in this part of West Virginia is a little wild, a little magical, and always full of stories. Anyone who visits or stays is invited to explore and make their own.

Those of us who’ve been here a lifetime, a decade, or even just a good solid year know a thing or two about how to do summer here. But there’s always something new to discover. Or rediscover. And if you’re visiting just a bit, welcome! Come on over and chat with me over the fence, grab some sweet tea, and consider this your unofficial, by-no-means-comprehensive, highly peculiar guide(ish) to summer in this place we hold dear.

Chapter One: Where the Water Finds You

Whether it’s the Greenbrier River, Moncove Lake, Blue Bend, or one of the region’s many creeks and swimming holes, you’re never far from a place to cool off. These aren’t just bodies of water. They’re baptismal fonts of Appalachian youth. Many of us grew up splashing in the river, skipping rocks at the lake, or learning to swim by getting tossed into the deep end of a creek.

For floating or kayaking, Caldwell and Pence Springs are a couple of local favorites for putting in, according to some kayakers I talked to. Grab your tube, lifejacket, sunscreen — maybe even the dog — and let the current carry your worries downstream.

Moncove Lake is a go-to for quiet night fishing. Nothing says summer here quite like moonlight gliding across still water on a warm night while the hills softly hum their evening song. While I’m not an avid angler, a few fisherfolk I know swear by it, and it’s one of my favorite spots to visit, day or night.

And then there’s Blue Bend, woven into the fabric of so many memories. People of all ages share their fond stories and great times there. The Anthony Creek swimming hole offers clear, cold water that’ll wake you right up, with depths perfect for everyone from cautious toe-dippers to seasoned swimmers. It’s a true local summer tradition.

Not a creek person? No worries. We’ve got plenty of public pools to help you beat the heat. Greenbrier State Forest, White Sulphur Springs, Moncove Lake State Park, Union Pool, and the Greenbrier Valley Aquatic Center all offer refreshing options that won’t leave mud between your toes.

Field Note: In these hills, “going swimming” might mean hiking half a mile with a towel over your shoulder, dodging briars, and stepping carefully over slick rocks but the reward is worth it. The best swimming holes are the ones you have to work a little to find. And when you get there, it’s just you, the water, and whatever stories you make while you’re there.

Chapter Two: Trail Mix

This area is home to countless beautiful trails, and I’ve personally explored every one I’m about to mention. When I asked locals which trails they would recommend to visitors or to those looking to get into hiking, these favorites came up again and again.

If you want to get really remote, head to Waiteville in Monroe County for the quiet, tree-lined Potts Valley Rail-Trail: a moderate, roughly 9-mile out-and-back along an old railroad corridor. You can expect mostly gentle grades, with some steeper sections near the trestle area and creek crossing (the creek is one of my favorite spots along the trail.) It’s highly unlikely you’ll have cell service out there, so plan accordingly.

If you enjoy rail trails, the Greenbrier River Trail is well worth exploring. This beloved path is a favorite among locals and visitors alike, welcoming walkers, cyclists, and horseback riders. Check it out and fall in love with the beautiful scenery, the river that seems to breathe and change with every turn, and the welcoming spirit of everyone you’ll meet along the way.

In western Greenbrier County, the Meadow River Rail Trail is another gem in the making. With over nine miles of gently graded path and more under development, it’s perfect for biking, hiking, or just stretching your legs while surrounded by beautiful views. Take your fishing rod and spend some quiet time restoring your soul.

Closer to town? Try the gentle YCC Trail in Greenbrier State Forest. It’s an easy loop along a creek that’s perfect for a quick nature fix. The forest offers trails for all experience levels, and if you’re lucky, you might spot Oakey, the State Forest’s tall, quiet, and completely harmless resident cryptid.

Take a drive up scenic Route 219 to Cranberry Glades Botanical Area, where a half-mile wheelchair-accessible boardwalk loops through a rare and stunning bog ecosystem. Not far from there, Beartown State Park offers a boardwalk winding through stunning ancient rock formations. While many stairs on the boardwalk may limit access for some visitors, a separate accessible viewing platform allows everyone to take in the park’s unique landscape.

And don’t forget the hidden gems. Some of the best trails aren’t on any map. Ask around, and a local might just send you down a mossy hillside to a quiet place only a few folks know about.

Field Note: If someone advises you not to hike a certain trail after dark, just… don’t. And if you hear your name called while you’re hiking alone? Nope. You didn’t.

Chapter Three: Tomato Sandwiches Are a Love Language

Summer eating around here starts with fresh produce, whether from your garden or the farmers market. And nothing says summer quite like a tomato that’s still warm from the sun. The farmers markets in Lewisburg, Alderson, Ronceverte, and White Sulphur Springs are full of local color (and flavor), with tables piled high with fresh produce and goodies, including enough tomatoes to turn every meal into a celebration of summer.

Hear me out: White bread, preferably toasted. Enough mayo to make the sweet church lady whose potato salad is the talk of every potluck proud. A tomato so ripe it’s practically begging for a napkin and maybe a slow clap. Salt it like that church lady’s watching. Grab a few paper towels, because if you’ve done it right, you’ll need them. Then enjoy Appalachian summertime on a plate.

Craving a twist? Grab a fried green tomato sandwich (or just some fried green tomatoes) and thank me later. But the bounty isn’t just about fresh food. It’s also about community. We’re lucky to live among generous, caring folks who look out for one another, often finding connection through shared meals. From May to October, on the first Monday of each month (except September, when it shifts to the second Monday due to Labor Day), the WVSOM Clingman Center for Community Engagement hosts Harvest Table: Fresh From the Garden, a free community meal held at Montwell Commons from 4 to 6 PM.

Field Note: If vegetables mysteriously show up on your porch or front seat, don’t worry. You’ve been visited by the Zucchini Fairy. It’s a familiar local practice that starts as the harvest rolls in and something both longtime residents and visitors might get lucky enough to experience.

Oakey, resident cryptid of Greenbrier State Forest

Chapter Four: Fireworks, Funnel Cakes, and Folks You Forgot

Festivals are the soundtrack of summer here. This month, the Alderson 4th of July Celebration is a beloved tradition, with a soapbox derby, firemen’s rodeo, horse show, and much more. At its heart is the Grand Parade, a classic and heartwarming highlight. The day ends with fireworks that light up the sky and create memories that linger long after the celebration fades.

Other good times to mark on your calendar:

  • John Henry Days in Talcott: July 11–13
  • Carnegie Hall’s Ivy Terrace Concert Series: Free outdoor concert on the second and fourth Thursdays through August
  • Lewisburg Literary Festival: Coming up in August
  • Also in August, the State Fair of West Virginia marks its 100th anniversary!

Field Note: For those of us who’ve lived around here for a while, festivals have a way of bringing out folks you haven’t seen in years. Old classmates you thought you’d forgotten appear out of nowhere. And surprise! They’re doing great. Definitely better than that one time in geometry class.

There’s no one right way to do summer in our region—everyone finds their own rhythm.

Some float the river. Others chase trailheads. For some, summer revolves around tomato season; for others, it’s all about the vibrant arts and cultural scene that makes this place so special. And some? They do it all.

Whether you’re a longtime local, a newer neighbor, or just passing through with a wandering spirit, this region has a way of getting into your heart and staying in your soul.

So stay a while. Watch the fireflies. Enjoy a tomato sandwich and a big slice of watermelon. Catch a live show, or even a few, at any of our beloved hometown venues. Sample a drink from a local brewery, and grab an iced coffee from a local cafe while you’re at it. Lose your phone signal and find yourself deep in conversation with someone who can name every tree along the river.

That’s the kind of magic summer brings here.

See you on the river, at the market, or under the fireworks.

And remember: if you hear the woods whisper your name… no, you didn’t.

Kayaking adventures on the Greenbrier River with Piper Pack (and her human, Carl.) Photo by Carl Pack
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